The Aitutaki Lagoon is a major highlight of a trip to the Cook Islands. Take full advantage of the five hour tiki tour which covers just part of this amazing lagoon. The colour of it literally defies description. It can range from the purest lapis lazuli, to topaz to an iridescent opal in the space of half an hour. It truly is a magnificent sight, whether it be a rough day or a dead flat one.
And let's be honest, the 'rough' day of a body of water that at best stretches to seven metres depth apart from man-dug channels, is no worse than say, Auckland's Waitemata Harbour on a good day. While you don't get close enough to the main reef to get drenched in it, if you carry a good 300mm lens, you'll get some great pictures of the surf created as the mighty deep-blue Pacific waters hurl themselves at this natural barrier.
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Another amazing aspect is the crystal clarity of the lagoon. When the coral formation rises close to the surface, you can see it and the sandy bottom quite clearly below you. First stop off is Moturangi Isle, a tiny and now uninhabited island that takes roughly 20 minutes to walk around.
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The next stop is among the inner reefs for those who want to snorkel and all cruise operators carry plenty of this gear on board. Any anyone can do it, because where the big boat stops, there is plenty of room to stand up and find yourself breathing air without any aids at all. As many parts of the lagoon as not are marine reserves and the schools of fish have learned their lessons well - they know that when the boats stop, there's plenty of free food. So snorkellers are never disappointed, you can hand feed them, although it must be said the sight of the day is watching up to 40 fish of up to almost 12 inches long get into a right royal squabble over a slice of bread. They aren't shy and you will see some extraordinarily colourful fish here, from the angel fish to the pencil shaped electric blue needle fish. While you are busy doing this, the hardworking crew on board are busy making lunch and there is nothing to beat island style buffet meals. Especially when the absolutely "I'll have seconds if it kills me" broadbill marlin is barbecued by none other than the captain himself. The one thing you'll really enjoy about these cruises is the fact that the six or seven staff are not only hilariously funny born entertainers, they literally can't help themselves - a belly-busting giggle and a guitar are never far away Natural entertainers While the boat is in transit and the chores are over, they all sit and play some of the oddest instruments you will ever see. From two back to back dessert spoons rhythmically thunked on the thigh, the naturally pre-requisite ukulele (which you will never find a replica of in the Warehouse or Bloomingdales) to a big wooden box with a hole in the lid, through which runs a piece of fine twine hooked up to a lever attached to a pole. By pulling the lever down to the required level and plinking away on the twine, it makes a sound very similar indeed to a $10,000 cello. And they all sing with that wonderfully melodic harmony that is so very much part of the Pacific Island culture.
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Nor can you help grinning as you watch three or four pareu-clad men take flying leaps into the water off the back of the boat amid cheers, catcalls and giggles from their counterparts who are waiting their turn. One of the highlights was the gentle bringing up of the two giant clams. Generally, if found, these are not touched by the islanders, but occasionally they will bring them up for those who do not snorkel to see. They are relatively rare these days, so it is by tacit agreement that they are left alone. And by the way, don't even think about taking the shell of a long dead clam off the beaches of anywhere in the Cook Islands - New Zealand and Australian customs will not allow you to bring it into either country.
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This has to do with the fact the giant clams are on the endangered species of the world list and by agreement, most countries who are signatory to the awareness, any products of species on the list are not permitted, which helps stop poaching. And this includes shells previously belonging to a giant clam. If you look carefully, you'll find some other excellent shells - just be sure to check that your own country will allow them in without certification, which can be gained from the Ministry of Agriculture and Fisheries in Rarotonga for a minimal cost. One Foot Island is the only other stop off and the big boat is carefully nosed up onto the beach, the steps laid down and you are free to explore, swim, snorkel or laze around with a good book here. Oh and if your trip is not a weekend one, you can also get your passport stamped at Aitutaki's only post office. Which is a bit of a laugh, as this is an uninhabited island, except for one exorbitantly priced beach bungalow which doesn't even have water supplied to it. As one crew member pointed out, it isn't used very often! But a lot of weddings are held here, it is a very beautiful, romantic island. The fish swim so close to shore that if they had legs, they'd be walking on the sand. If you do this trip, things to remember are: . Even though the boat is sheltered, sunscreen lotion is a must. . Sunglasses should be worn, the glare off the water is strong. . You should take insect repellent, for the islands you visit will have their population of them. . Take some money with you, while tea, coffee and water are free, they do sell soft drink and beer. . This trip is not available Sundays. Airport Schedules Air rarotonga operates daily flights from Rarotonga at 8am and returning at 6:30pm include hotel transfers, airfares, lagoon cruise, snorkelling and lunch.
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